Frequently Asked Questions

Due to a change in warranty policy, products purchased before March 1st, 2021, are applied to our previous warranty policy, which is three months from the date of purchase. Any purchased product on March 1st and beyond 2021 is effective under current policies of warranty.

• For all returns or warranty claims, please contact support@ebikeling.com.
• eBikeling offers a 1-year warranty on brand new hub motors and batteries. All other components and refurbished conversion kits are under       a 3-month warranty.
• Customer pays return shipping on warrantied component inspections. We recommend using a local shipping service like FedEx office or the UPS Store for all return shipping.
• If the returning package doesn't include all the accessories and parts it was shipped with, the cost of the missing parts will be deducted from the total product price and can only warrant a partial refund.
• Refunds are processed within 3-5 business days of receipt of the returned merchandise. A partial refund shall be issued accordingly.
• Warranty only applies to the original owner (non-transferable).
• Lifetime technical support. Reach out to support@ebikeling.com for help from our team of experts

• The warranty does not cover Do-It-Yourself modifications, everyday wear, and damage due to gross negligence or abuse.
• The customer is required to send the entire conversion kit back to eBikeling to inspect any motor-related replacement requests.
• The items must be returned to eBikeling within two weeks after the return approval.
• After the inspection, if a product does not meet our high-quality standards, eBikeling will issue a replacement component or fix the original at no additional cost.
• If the inspection result indicates that the issue is caused by the customer, eBikeling will notify the customer with the cost of the repair/replacement.
• eBikeling will send replacement components only after receiving the returned parts and completing the inspection to determine the cause of any problems. eBikeling is not responsible for the return shipping to us.

Any unused item (no damage to the surface finish, aesthetics, or appearance) return claims will require pictures of the rim, hub motor plate (both sides), and axle nuts (both sides). Returns of undamaged conversion kits may be issued full refunds, less a 15% restocking fee.

eBikeling will send a return label to the customer. eBikeling will test "dead on arrival" or "defective" items upon arrival. If returned items are defective as stated by the customer, eBikeling will send a replacement at no additional cost.

If a returned item is damaged due to misuse, the customer will have two choices;

eBikeling may send the item back to the customer at their cost, including the return shipping cost.

eBikeling will notify the customer with the cost of the repair/replacement.

 A PayPal invoice will be sent to the customer in both situations.

The range and top speed on conversion kits are estimates (not guarantees) of expected performance. The performance will vary depending on rider weight, cargo weight, rider/cargo shape (contribute to drag), terrain, tire pressure, brake adjustment, throttle versus PAS usage, pedal power, battery charge level, ambient temperature, and wind conditions. Under certain conditions, it is possible to get ranges and top speeds different from the listed estimates.

All return costs are to be covered by the buyer.

eBikeling products with warranty exclusions/expirations may be eligible for repair at our location for specific occasions. The repair services are limited to replacing the damaged motor cable, rim, and spokes.

Please mail your package in a traceable method to the address below. Include a note with your name, your order number, and describe your situation and request.

eBikeling
Technical Support Team
5658 W Fillmore St
Chicago, IL 60644

00: No Error (IDLE MODE)
02: Brakes. Make sure the brakes are not engaged. Check power cut-off sensors inside of the levers carefully. Make sure that the connectors are seated properly.
03: Pedal Assist System (PAS) error. This means that the system can’t receive a signal from the PAS. Check the PAS sensor connector carefully. Make sure the sensor is not damaged.
04: 6KM/H Walk Mode Problem
05: Real-Time cruising
06: Battery undervoltage. Check input voltage (P03). Input and battery voltages should be the same. In some cases, it may refer to defective battery cells that are not able to provide actual voltage. You can test it setting P03 to lower voltages such as 24V

Go to the settings panel on your SW900 or S830 LCD Display, check voltage (P03) if it's set correctly. Usually happens when the voltage of your battery and the one set on your LCD Display do not match. Also, check your battery voltage with a voltmeter.

07: Motor problem (Mostly happens due to loose connection, bent pins in the connectors, or a bad controller). Pushing the connectors harder or fixing the bent pins can solve the issue.

Disconnect all the wires connected to the CONTROLLER (not LCD or LED display) and the hub motor including the harness cable. Check the pins inside of those connectors and make sure that there is no bent pin that may cause a loose connection. We recommend using a flashlight to check the pins. Also, make sure that there is no broken wire. Reconnect all the connectors pushing firmly (Push them as hard as possible).

08: Throttle problem (This may also appear when battery and input voltages do not match).
09: Controller problem. (Mostly happens due to loose connection, bent pins in the connectors, or a bad controller). Pushing the connectors harder or fixing the bent pins can solve the issue.
10: Communication Receiving problem (Check hall sensor wires. Make sure that the connectors have a positive connection. Push connectors harder to seat them properly).
11: Communication Sending problem (Check hall sensor wires. Make sure that the connectors have a positive connection. Push connectors harder to seat them properly).
12: BMS Communication problem.
13: Headlight problem.

Kindly check all the connections carefully. Make sure that the throttle is connected to the right connector (the yellow connector on the harness cable, not the one on the controller).

Disconnect all the wires connected to the CONTROLLER (not LCD or LED display) and the hub motor including the harness cable. Check the pins inside of those connectors and make sure that there is no bent pin that may cause a loose connection. Reconnect all the connectors pushing firmly (Push as hard as possible).

If you have an LCD display (SW900 or S830), make sure that you have the following parameters set on the settings panel: P07 - 46 for Direct Drive (1200w or higher) motors and 100 for Geared (500w) motors.
P08 - 99
P09 - 0
P10 - 2

Make sure that the PAS sensor cable is connected to the orange connector on the controller and the gap between the sensor and the magnetic rotor is less than half an Inch.
Try pedaling backwards to see if it engages the hub motor or not.
The rotor might be installed in the wrong direction.
If you have an LCD display (SW900 or S830), make sure that you have the following parameters set on the settings panel:
P07 - 46 for Direct Drive (1200w or higher) motors and 100 for Geared (500w) motors.
P08 - 99
P09 - 0
P10 - 2
P11 - 1
 P12 - 2
P13 - 8 (as default), but you can try 12 in case it does not work.

Pedal assist system uses a magnetic sensor and a magnetic ring to sense how fast the rider is pedaling. This information is then processed by the controller and depending on the chosen assist level, the motor will apply additional power to the wheel. Installation starts by taking the left pedal off the hub. You should now see the lock ring holding the pedal hub inside the bicycle frame. Take this ring off, install the sensor then tighten the ring back on the hub and on the sensor ring. Now a magnetic ring is pushed on the hub paying attention to the arrows. Put the pedal back and tighten with a ratchet to specs. PAS wire must go right!

No, brake levers and PAS (Pedal Assist System) are optional.

Make sure that the LED or LCD display is connected properly.
If you have an LCD display (SW900 or S830) hold the “M” button pressed for 5-6 seconds to turn the kit on and off.
Check the battery connection carefully, make sure it has a positive connection.
Check if the battery has an on-off switch on it and make sure it’s switched on.
Reconnect the harness cable (the cable that splits into 4 connectors) pushing firmly.

There might be several reasons.

• Check e-brake levers, make sure they are not damaged or engaged. If engaged, the system will not let the motor or throttle to operate.
• Check throttle connectors if there is any loose connection or bent pin inside the connector.
• Check the connection between the motor and the controller.
• Cycle analyst may cause the system to stop for some reason, so disconnect it if you use one.

The red light remains even when the battery is fully charged due to the design of the battery.
 The green lights go off gradually depending on the usage until the voltage decreases to the red light zone, which means the battery is about to die.

1. Setting magnet numbers on the PAS rotor correctly can solve the issue.
2. Charge your battery to 100% and try again.

Kindly check the article below:
How to set SW900 LCD Display Parameters?

eBikeling brake levers can still be used with a 2-pin hydraulic brake sensor connector. Unfortunately, we do not carry this connector. However, you can find it from online stores

eBikeling conversion kits are compatible with every bike that meets the required

Wheel size*
Dropout angle
Axle length

These values can be found in the product descriptions of each kit and may differ from one kit to another. You can find wheel and tire sizes on your tire sidewall indicated as 26”x2.125”, 700Cx28C, etc.

Kindly check the minimum dropout and axle length requirements in the product description. The kit will fit as long as your bike meets those requirements.

Unfortunately, each brand may have their own signal type which might now be supported by eBikeling controllers and the motors. We strongly recommend sticking with the same brand to avoid incompatibility issues.

Yes, all the hub motors we carry are disk brake compatible.

Technically, yes, you can use a 48v battery with 500w kits as long as you have an LCD display to adjust the input voltage manually and the controller remains the same (22A).

However, we recommend using 36v batteries with 500w kits to avoid possible motor and controller issues.

1200w and 1500w kits are compatible with both 48v and 52v batteries. We recommend using batteries with 20 or higher Ah.
500w kits are compatible with 36v batteries.
PS: The controller comes with an SY60 (Compatible with XT60 connectors) male type battery connector.

• 26” wheels are compatible with 1.75", 1.95", 2.125" tires.
• 700C wheels are compatible with 28C, 32C, and 35C tires.

The red light remains even when the battery is fully charged due to the design of the battery.
880 Displays are not fully compatible with our controllers.

Please check styrofoams inside of the box carefully. They must be on one of the foams.

No bag is included in the kit, unfortunately. Conversion kits come with the parts mentioned in the product description.

No battery is included in the kit as mentioned in the product description.

Please check your order details and make sure that you ordered a kit with an LCD display. It should be mentioned in the brackets. The main image on the product pages with all the parts does not mean that everything you see on the photo is included in the kit. It shows the options we offer. You should choose the right combination from the options offered depending on your bike type and expectations.

Depends on many factors, including the weight you move on a bike, weather conditions, pedal power you provide, your speed (higher speed requires more power which will reduce the range), type of surface (riding conditions) and so on. But the typical range of an electric bike conversion kit on a single battery charge is 20-40 miles depending on the kit type and the battery.

No, it’s rare in electric bikes and unfortunately we are not among those rare suppliers, at least for now. We have chosen to trust critics who claim that it is not worth extra cost as the efficiency gains are minimal.

Yes, you can ride an electric bike like a regular one when power is off or the battery dies

We do not recommend using them under heavy rain as you may experience a short circuit. On the other hand, the battery works best on a sunny day and it will affect your range accordingly

- Hub motor
- Controller
- **

The battery dimensions are as follows:

• Triangle : 10.75” x 3.15” x 7.2”
• Bare : 11” x 6.7” x 3.15”
• Shark LG : 13.5” x 4.5” x 4.5”
• Dolphin : 14” x 5” x 3.5”
• Bottle Type : 14” x 4” x 4”
• Rear Rack LG : 14” x 6” x 3.5”

Here are the compatible battery options for each kit:

• 500W Kits : 36V and 48V* batteries
• 750W Kits : 36V and 48V* batteries
• 1200W Kits : 48V and 52V batteries
• 1500W Kits : 48V and 52V batteries

(*) As long as the controller amperage remains 22A, 48V batteries can be used.

If you are outside the United States, we recommend purchasing through eBay’s global shipping program.

Here is eBay store:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/ebikeling

We require an adult signature at delivery for orders over $100. So, all the e-bike conversion kit orders will require a signature at delivery by default.

As we all know, there is a reality that so many packages are stolen off front porches daily and this makes us require a signature as a proof of delivery to make sure you receive the product you ordered safe and sound. Sometimes it may cause some inconvenience, of course but on the other hand it assures the safety of delivery. We do not want someone else to enjoy the e-bike you paid for.

eBikeling conversion kits are compatible with every bike that meets the required:

Wheel size*
Dropout angle
Axle length

These values can be found in the product descriptions of each kit and may differ from one kit to another. You can find wheel and tire sizes on your tire sidewall indicated as 26”x2.125”, 700Cx28C, etc.